Le vinaigre Balsamique de Modène          balsamic VinAgar of Modena

 

Le vinaigre balsamique de Modène

Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

 

Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is famous throughout the world for the extraordinary flavour and perfume with which it enriches the culinary art. Rather less well known are its origins and the traditions involved in its production. As early as the time of the Roman Empire, grape juice was used and sold both as a sweetener and as a tonic. Given that grape juice is extremely prone to fermentation, it was usual to boil the grape must for a considerable time, both to sterilize it and to concentrate it down to 30-40% of the original volume. In this manner alcoholic fermentation of the must was prevented, allowing it to be stored for a long time and therefore to be transported and sold. This product is today called “Mosto Cotto” (cooked grape-must) and is the raw material from which we produce Balsamic Vinegar.

It is not possible to know when it was discovered that this product could be acetified, nor can we be sure why the production techniques were developed only within the ancient Estense Duchy of Modena. What we do know is that the climate, the particular qualities of local grape and wine production and our forefathers` love and dedication to their work gave birth to this incomparable product – Balsamic Vinegar, which, born of a passion undimmed by the passing of centuries, today perpetuates ancient production techniques.
The word Vinegar, when connected to “Balsamic”, could give the impression that it is similar to other wine vinegars. On the contrary: the only thing that they have in common is the word Vinegar. In fact, whilst other wine vinegars are merely “adulterations” of an existing product - wine – Balsamic Vinegar is deliberately created from the must of carefully selected and well-matured Modenese grapes. Over time, each family producing Traditional Balsamic Vinegar has developed its own techniques and little production secrets, passed down from mother to daughter (it was in fact the responsibility of the women to look after the rows of Balsamic Vinegar barrels) and kept secret.

    Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is produced by time-honoured methods, which have, over the years, become enriched by variations born of family traditions.

The must of the Trebbiano grape, along with that of other Modenese grapes is boiled over a direct heat until reduced to 30-40% of its original volume. The resultant product, which is called Mosto Cotto (cooked must) or Saba, is then put into barrels already containing a third of the already acetified product from the previous year. Thus, each year’s Mosto Cotto begins the acetification process by virtue of carefully selected ferments from the previous year’s production. Only after one year is the by now acetified product transferred into the largest of a series of barrels known as a “battery”. A battery consists of a minimum of 6 barrels of decreasing sizes, all made of different types of wood, such as oak, chestnut, juniper, ash, mulberry, cherry.. Each year the mature vinegar from the last (and smallest) barrel is taken out for family consumption; this used to be preserved in a special ceramic container called a Tragno. When the vinegar is taken out, at least a third of the vinegar is always left in the barrel, which is then filled up to 2/3 of its volume by decanting vinegar from the previous barrel. This process continues through all of the barrels in the battery.

Filling the barrels, which are always left open, to only 2/3 of their actual volume leaves a large surface area in contact with the air, thus allowing the acetic and aerobic yeasts and ferments to work to optimum efficiency. The surface area in contact with air is further increased by the use of small wooden barrels, which are permeable to oxygen. This process, which is extremely expensive due to the cost of the raw material, the continuous evaporation out of the open barrels and, not least, to the amount of work involved in the decanting and the day-to-day maintenance of the barrels, leads, after several years, to a fine product: dark and very dense, but clear with a fragrant, rounded and typically bittersweet flavour.

Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena may only be sold at one of two minimum maturation levels – at least 12 years, which is called Affinato (meaning refined) and at least 25 years, which is called Stravecchio (meaning very mature). It must also undergo stringent organoleptic testing by a panel of Master Tasters at the Modena Chamber of Commerce.

Balsamic Vinegar that meets the organoleptic criteria must then be bottled, still on Chamber of Commerce premises, in the typical bottles prescribed by the Procedural Regulations.

Balsamic Vinegar of Modena

Production of Balsamic Vinegar of Modena adheres to the traditional method, but uses an industrial process with shorter refinement and maturation times. The final product which, in order to maintain consistency, is allowed to be corrected with a blend of balsamic vinegars of varying maturations, must then undergo a process of refinement in wooden barrels prior to bottling.
The greater the care and the longer the refinement and maturation time of the product, the better is the flavour, rounder and fuller, and the less aggressive the acidity. Balsamic Vinegar of Modena is almost black, with an amber tinge, in colour, clear and of a density that increases in direct proportion to the maturation time.
There are various Balsamic Vinegars on the market; these differ greatly in quality and in price due to a variety of different maturation times.

 

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